CONTACT STRENGTH (PART 2)

In the previous article I demonstrated the importance of contact strength with the rise of climbing level. Due to the intensity of this kind of training it is not recommended to novice climbers

To increase this capacity we could use climbing itself or use the campus board as a fundamental tool.

Contact strength training via climbing

As we saw, contact strength is the capacity to apply the higher strength as possible in the minimum amount of time, so, using climbing as a mean to increase contact force there are some activities:

Speed climbing: climb as faster as possible, toproping or bouldering. It’s a funny exercise. Main idea is to think holds are super hot, so you have to leave them as soon as possible. Sets must be 8 to 10 sec max to develop powerful movements, and rests must be complete (3 minutes)

No foot climbing: no foot bouldering is ideal to increase your contact strength. Once your increase your ability you could reduce holds size. Always in a maximum of 6 movement problems and a complete rest (3 minutes)

Contact strength via campus board

Campus board is a training mean that has two different goals: to train finger flexors contact strength and to train back and arms strength and power. Wolfgang Gullich started using it in 90´s, and then this tool became popular among climbers.

Campus board is an excellent tool to increase contact strength. But several cautions must be taken. Definitely isn’t a tool for novice climbers, and it is not recommended for climbers younger than 17 years old that haven’t arrived to full bone maturity, because finger joint trauma generated by campus board can generate fractures, as been well documented in Audry Morrison and Volker Schoeffl studies (Physiological responses in young rock climbers).

There are two groups of campus exercises:

Reaches and pushes: consists in climb rung to rung with one hand while the other stays in the first rung. Main goal is to reach the highest rung as possible either by the pushing with the lower arm or pulling with the ascending arm, or both in a coordinated manner (better). This exercise and some variations (watch this video) don’t generate excessive impact in joints, because always body weight is supported by the lower hand which adds more control to the movement.

Even so, exercises can be classified by their impact. High impact exercises are exclusively for high level climbers, and low impact exercises are for medium level climbers.

Simple reaches: ascending rung to rung

Double or triple reaches: ascending skipping one or two rungs

Maximum reaches: ascending up to maximum extension as possible, here you have to pay attention to full extend lower arm.

Jumps or dynos: they consists on jumps with both hands at a time. These jumps can be ascending or descending (catching a lower rung).

As with pushes and reaches, an impact classification can be done with jumps

Simple dyno: jump from rung to rung (big rung) with both hands

Plyometric combinations: using simple dyno basis, jumping up and down , or jumping up skipping one rung and jump down one, and all simple combinations of simple dynos, but always respecting movement velocity and descending only one rung and ascending skipping one rung max.

Between 6 to 10 jumps for both exercises, or once movement velocity is lost. $ to 10 sets with full rest (3 minutes)

Doubles, triples, maximum dynos: skipping one, two, three, etc rungs, reaching the highest rung as possible. 4 to 6 jumps, 4 to 10 sets and full rest (3 minutes)

All of these exercises could be more intense by reducing rung size, but this strategy is only possible when all the variations are dominated and climber level is high.

Recomendations:

• Analyze if you really need to add volume to your training..
• Determine if you have enough capacity to tolerate a high intensity training.
• High strength levels are necessary, and without actual or recently injuries in fingers or elbows joints, muscles or tendons.
• It is not recommended to add any of the high impact exercises to low or intermediate level climber’s workout.
• Campus board is a tool to develop strength and power, so sets must be of low volume (4 to 6 reps) and rests between sets must be complete (3 minutes)

Each campus training session must start without previous fatigue. If this happens, it would be very difficult to maintain enough power , and the lack of coordination could be an injury factor due to the intensity of the exercise.

Prof. Juan Martín Miranda