SPEED CLIMBING TRAINING PART 3

This is the last post of the speed climbing series. I will show some methodology and exercises.

The speed in a climbing route will depend on two factors: length and frequency of individual moves.

Length depends on:

1- Morphologic characteristics

2 Strength

3- Holds

4- Flexibility

Frequency depends on:

1- Contact time

2- Flight time (COG in vertical direction)

Improving each of these aspects will improve in final climbing speed. Some aspects can’t be changed like anthropometric characteristics or where the holds are screwed. But strength, flexibility, contact time and flight time can be trained and there is where our efforts will be centered.

Methodological tasks

• - Increase speed possibilities by high frequency innervations using low resistance and a short period of time
• Increase special strength preparedness using dynamic moves
• Increase speed endurance using interval method
• Reach perfect coordination and maximum efficiency of the neuromuscular effort

The following videos shows some methodologies to work upper body strength

Frequency campus exercises

And for movement length

Assisted exercise will be helpful to frequency improvement when using campus board because sometimes (always!!) body weight is excessive to apply a correct speed training load. Using elastic bands attached to a harness will be enough.

Non assisted exercises need to be performed after assisted ones, so we can finish with the real motor path

Methodology

1. Normal – resisted – normal
2. Normal – resisted – normal – resisted – normal
3. Normal – assisted – normal
4. Normal – assisted – normal – assisted – normal
5. Normal – resisted – normal – assisted – normal
6. Normal – resisted – assisted – normal

7. assisted – resisted – assisted - normal

Some exercises to train lower body strength

For power nothing better than jumps

This chart resumes the tasks to train for speed climbing

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Some reflections concerning speed training

1. Technique and coordination are important do speed
2. Max strength and power have a positive effect; max strength, power and speed makes a dynamic unity
3. Muscular imbalances are counter-productive during speed development
4. Exercises performed at sub maximal speed generate sub maximal speed neural paths.
5. It is preferable quality than quantity. Maximum speed improvements is only possible by a complex and well developed process of load planning and control

Prof. Juan Martín Miranda